Method
How to Take Your Own Measurements
Four numbers go into a shalwar kameez stitch order: bust, waist, hip and shoulder-to-hem length. Each one is easy to get wrong by 2–5 cm through a specific, avoidable mistake. Measure over the underlayer you will actually wear, keep the tape flat and level, and record the raw number before adding any ease.
Procedure: taking the four base measurements
- Gather a soft (not metal) tape measure, stand in front of a mirror, and wear the fitted layer you will stitch the suit over. Common failure: measuring over a loose top — every reading below comes out inflated by whatever the top adds.
- Bust: wrap the tape under the arms and across the fullest point of the chest, level all the way around, tape flat against the body but not compressing it. Common failure: tape sagging at the back — gives a falsely low reading that later feels tight across the shoulder blades.
- Waist: find the natural crease when you bend slightly sideways — that is the narrowest point — and measure there, tape snug but not tight. Common failure: measuring at the navel instead of the natural crease, adding 2–4 cm to the true waist.
- Hip: measure around the fullest point of the hip and seat, feet together, tape level front to back. Common failure: wide stance while measuring — inflates the reading by 3–5 cm compared to a natural stance.
- Length: mark the shoulder point with a finger or pin, then measure straight down to the desired hem — 100–115 cm for an adult kameez, 60–75 cm for a short kurti. Common failure: no fixed shoulder point — the tape drifts toward the neck or the arm and the finished hem sits crooked.
- Add 1.5 cm seam allowance per seam and 5–8 cm (fitted) or 10–15 cm (loose) of ease at the bust before handing the numbers to a tailor. Common failure: ease added twice — once by you and again by the tailor — leaves the garment loose at the chest.
Where and how to hold the tape
| Measurement | Landmark | Tape position |
|---|---|---|
| Bust | fullest point of the chest | level, under the arms, flat not tight |
| Waist | natural crease when bending sideways | snug, not compressing skin |
| Hip | fullest point of hip and seat | level front to back, feet together |
| Length | shoulder point to hem | straight down, same fixed point both times |
Tape position on the body
Questions about measuring yourself
Can I measure over a jacket or loose kurta and just subtract a bit?
No — measure over the fitted layer you plan to wear under the finished suit. Subtracting a guessed amount from a loose-layer reading is less accurate than measuring directly, and the error compounds once ease and seam allowance are added on top.
Should I hold my breath or stand up straight while measuring the bust?
Stand naturally and breathe normally. Holding your breath or pulling the shoulders back changes the chest circumference by a centimetre or more, which is enough to shift you between the 4–5 cm size steps on the bust chart.
Do I add the ease myself or does the tailor do it?
Decide with your tailor before cutting, and add it only once. Either you record raw measurements and the tailor adds 5–8 cm (fitted) or 10–15 cm (loose) of ease, or you add it yourself and tell the tailor the number already includes ease — not both.