Stitched three-piece suit · measurements & yardage
What measurements and how much fabric do I need for a stitched shalwar kameez?
Take your own bust, waist, hip and shoulder-to-hem length, add 1.5 cm seam allowance per seam and 5–15 cm of ease at the bust, and buy 7–8 m of 112 cm-wide fabric to cover the kameez, shalwar and dupatta together, plus 0.5 m for cutting waste. The table below is the order you hand to a tailor or use to cut yourself; the two figures show where the numbers come from.
Quick-reference table: measurements and fabric
| Item | Value | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Kameez fabric | 2.5–3 m | on a 112 cm (44 in) bolt |
| Shalwar fabric | 2–2.5 m | on a 112 cm (44 in) bolt |
| Dupatta fabric | 2.5 m | standard 2.5 m × 1 m (100 × 40 in) |
| Cutting waste + pattern matching | +0.5 m | added on top of the three pieces |
| Total suit, 112 cm bolt | 7–8 m | 9–10 m if flared or heavily embellished |
| Adult kameez length | 100–115 cm | shoulder to hem; short kurti cuts run 60–75 cm |
| Seam allowance | 1.5 cm | 5/8 in, per seam |
| Bust ease | 5–8 cm / 10–15 cm | fitted cut / loose cut, added to bust measurement |
Where the base measurements are taken
Fabric consumption on a 112 cm bolt
Procedure: from tape measure to finished suit
- Measure bust, waist, hip and shoulder-to-hem length over close-fitting clothes. Common failure: tape pulled tight — the garment comes back undersized at the first fitting.
- Convert the raw body measurements into a stitch order by adding 1.5 cm seam allowance per seam and 5–8 cm (fitted) or 10–15 cm (loose) of bust ease. Common failure: no ease added — the kameez binds across the chest and back.
- Calculate fabric metres per piece and buy 0.5 m extra for cutting waste and pattern matching before cutting. Common failure: short bolt — buying to the bare metre with no matching allowance leaves the cutter short.
- Pre-shrink lawn or cotton fabric by washing and drying it before marking, since these fabrics shrink 3–5% on first wash. Common failure: shrunk after stitching — a garment marked at 100 cm comes out 3–5 cm short once washed.
- Hand cutting, marking and machine stitching at the tailor, using a 2.5–3 mm stitch on lawn/cotton or 2 mm on chiffon/organza. Common failure: wrong stitch length — chiffon and organza pucker along the seam if stitched at 2.5–3 mm instead of 2 mm.
- Final fitting and adjustment at collection. Common failure: no adjustment window — alterations requested after the free-fitting period are charged separately.
Questions from the fitting room
The tailor says my bust is 96 cm but I measured 91 cm at home — who is right?
Both readings can be correct for different reasons: brand size charts step the bust 4–5 cm per size (91 cm M, 96 cm L, 101 cm XL) but individual charts drift 2–3 cm from that, so a size label is only a guide. Use your own tape reading, taken over the underlayer you will actually wear, not the letter on a chart.
Why does my kameez feel tight across the chest even though it matches my bust measurement?
A stitch order needs ease added on top of the raw body measurement, not the raw number itself: 5–8 cm for a fitted cut or 10–15 cm for a loose cut. A kameez cut to the exact bust figure with no ease will bind when you move.
I bought exactly 7 m, why did the tailor say it is not enough?
7 m sits at the low end of the 7–8 m range for kameez, shalwar and dupatta and does not include the 0.5 m needed for cutting waste and pattern matching. A kameez over about 110 cm long, or a flared or heavily embellished cut, also pushes consumption to 9–10 m.
Will my lawn or cotton suit shrink after I wash it?
Yes: lawn and cotton shrink 3–5% on the first wash, so a panel marked at 100 cm can come out 3–5 cm short. Pre-shrink the fabric by washing and drying it before marking or cutting.
Does buying unstitched fabric change how much I need compared to stitched?
No: an unstitched suit piece is already cut to roughly the same 7–8 m range. Stitching adds the seam allowance and ease into the cutting plan, but it does not change the metres of fabric you buy up front.
How long is a dupatta, and does chiffon need more?
A standard dupatta is 2.5 m × 1 m (about 100 × 40 in). Chiffon and net dupattas made for formal wear commonly run longer, to 2.5–3 m.